The Road to Racetrack

Racetrack Playa and the Grandstand
Leica M11, 180mm Apo-Telyt, 12 image panorama - an insanely large and detailed file

Since first seeing images of the sailing stones of Death Valley's Racetrack in college, I've wanted to visit for myself. The fact that it is situated squarely in the middle of nowhere makes it challenging enough, but the reason I never went was because of the horror stories of the road leading in. Sharp, jagged rocks routinely cut tires. Sections can be washed out at times or there may be crossings that become rutted and need four wheel drive. Nonexistent cell service makes it even more challenging to find a tow company willing to go all the way out there to rescue your dumb ass if you wind up in trouble. Every map warns you, every website warns you, and the park has several signs as you leave the pavement, repeatedly warning of the hazards with infographics to boot. They make sure you can't say you didn't know. 

Tin Mountain Pass, filled with Joshua Trees, on the way to the Racetrack
Hasselblad X1DII, 35-70mm

The sign says it all. iPhone

Needless to say, I was a little concerned for my well being (and mental health) when I decided to take a vintage rattle can of notoriously finicky rotating German parts and 1980's computer technology on the road to hell, without all the backup measures I would have liked. I never made it past Webelos in Scouts, but I took their motto to heart, even as a kid; "be prepared." Besides doing my best to give my tires the easiest path I could find, I spent much of my three hour drive thinking of contingency plans for any of the possibilities. One nice thing about driving a Westfalia is that if you break down, you have all the comforts you need to wait for help - even if it takes a while. 

I'm glad I am more comfortable at making these kinds of poor choices than I used to be. I have found myself in enough sticky situations with the van to know that being prepared doesn't necessarily mean having all the tools you wish you had; it's about being pragmatic, creative and resourceful when faced with a challenge. I have managed to figure things out when they've gone sideways before, and trust that I'll figure out whatever comes next. If I had waited until I was as prepared as I would have liked, I would probably have died before ever visiting. 

The little van that could; tiny amongst the vast desert, with the Racetrack in the background.
Hasselblad X1DII, 35-70mm

Jokes and reputations aside, the sheer number of these vans still on the road is evidence of their resilience and robust mechanical design. Owning and operating one is a full contact sport that requires interaction at every level. It's a lifestyle, and is definitely not for everyone. I know mine inside and out, having my hands on just about every piece that makes her up at this point. Despite some impasses and tantrums, she's never left me stranded. It's become one of the most rewarding relationships of my life.

Sunrise on the Playa
Leica M11, 180mm Apo-Telyt, another multi-image pano, too big to handle